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The Editor's Tutorial |
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.Dormancy |
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Begonias should
never be forced into dormancy.
The latter part of the season is important in that it is the period when
the tuber can be given the chance to recoup it's resources. Think of
it as a battery, it needs to be rested fully charged.
As the leaves yellow
and fall watering is progressively reduced and finally ceased so that by the time only the stem remains
the compost is almost, but not completely dry.
Once the stem has fallen tubers should be left in their pots for another
two or three weeks to allow the skin to ripen. |
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Falstaff |
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Harvesting.
About two weeks after the stem has fallen the tuber can be
removed from it's pot, this is known as harvesting. Any remaining
compost is teased away taking care not to tear the skin as roots will
not form next year on the damaged area. |
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Removing the scab.
At the base of where the stem joined the tuber a scab will have formed,
this must be removed as if left unattended rot will form underneath and eat down into the
tuber. The scab can be prized off quite easily when ready.
The
wound will dry naturally but the tuber should not be stored away until the
wound has healed. |
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Hot water treatment
This is an end of season routine that I
have always given my begonias. It is a precaution against eelworm
and many growers believe it also increases vigour in the plant the
following year.
The dormant tubers are immersed in water at 115ºf.
46ºc. for 20 minutes and then plunged straight into cold water containing
a fungicide for an
hour. Since the withdrawal of Benlate and Systhane I now use Bio
Dythane 945. Large cutting tubers receive only 10 minutes in the hot water,
small cutting tubers are not treated. |
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Stored tubers
After the above treatment has been carried out and the tubers have dried they are stored in almost,
but not completely dry Irish moss peat. If the peat clings to the tuber it is not dry enough. My buckets of tubers go up into the loft, anywhere dry and frost
free is okay but if the temperature is too high the tubers will
start to pip prematurely. |
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Regular
inspection
The dormant tubers are inspected every two or three weeks. Any signs
of rot or mould can then be detected and dealt with at an early
stage. The wound is then allowed to dry before the
tuber is placed back in the storage bucket. |
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In the greenhouse
Meanwhile the greenhouse is given a thorough clean and the
top layer of sharp sand in the heated sand-beds replaced. By the beginning
of February all will be ready for starting the small cutting
tubers........and then off we go again - into a new
campaign with dreams of massive blooms and best results ever ! |
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